Dear all,

It has been awhile since I have written, so I thought I’d collect some thoughts together and let you all know that I am still doing well here in Kiev! Although it only February, it is raining outside (rather than snowing) and it almost feels like spring. However, if the weather forecasters are correct temps will dip back below freezing again by the end of the week. I am happy to have passed, almost painlessly, through the shortest day, the winter solstice, and I am appreciating the extra few minutes of light that are added each day. I have been amusing myself during the long winter nights by doing a lot of reading. I completed Dostoyevsky’s “Crime and Punishment” in about three days over the winter break. In English, not the original Russian, but I felt I understood some references in the book that I would have not gotten had I not lived for 10 months in a “post-Soviet” culture. For example, references to stinking stairwells and the use of the patronymic names. In addition to reading, I have been using my oven and have baked oatmeal cookies, cornbread, pumpkin bread, banana bread, scones, and even a chicken.

I had a very nice Hanukah. I was happy to use my travel menorah, a departing gift from friends, and lit the candles almost every night. (We all end up with a few extra candles in the box each year, don’t we?!) The first two nights of Hanukah I celebrated in Chernigiv with Peace Corps friends Lani and Brian and Susan and Kathryn from Kiev. Lani made applesauce, and I cooked a huge batch of latkes. On the seventh night, (which happened to be December 25, but Catholic Christmas is not observed in Kiev, except by some in the west, but rather the Orthodox Christmas which fell on January 7 this year) I hosted a Hanukah party at my apartment. Although many of my friends were out of town, a nice, small group came to enjoy more latkes and light the menorah. I explained how the dreidel game works, but somehow we never got around to playing.

New Years eve is a family holiday here, and also the main gift-giving holiday. I spent the evening with members of my Peace Corps family – Kathryn, Chris and Robyn. We enjoyed a dinner out and then champagne and girl talk at Kathryn’s apartment in Kiev. On Orthodox Christmas, Susan hosted a brunch at her apartment. It was nice to gather with Peace Corps friends and hear stories from everyone, especially those who had traveled for the holidays. Then the next day it was back to the office.

I hope you all had a warm, fun, and peaceful holiday season. Best wishes for 2004,

Delilah