Thursday, December 2, 2004 As the saying goes, all is quiet in the eye of the storm. Yesterday evening, I made my second visit to Kyiv’s Independence Square, the center of the protest against the election results. If you have seen the footage on television, you’ve likely seen the mass of people and the sea of flags: the blue and yellow Ukrainian flag, the orange flags supporting the “Our Ukraine” party presidential candidate, Victor Yushchenko. I was there early yesterday evening, standing near the stage, looking out at that sea of flags. I also saw: flags for Ukraine’s green party, flags of neighboring countries such as Georgia, Poland and Hungary. I saw the European Union flag and a Canadian flag. A week ago (on American Thanksgiving Day) there were one or two U.S. flags, which I saw on television through my turkey-induced food coma, but since then there have been no U.S. flags). It is so quiet there in the eye of the storm. Yes, there is the constant stream of speakers and entertainers on the stage. There are periodic shouts of, “Yushchenko, Yushchenko,” and another slogan of freedom. Considering that there are, at times, half a million people, gathered together in this (what? A few square kilometers, it takes less than ten minutes to walk across under normal conditions) space it is quiet. I hear the silent scream, the real message of this protest: Enough. It is time for democracy, representative, a responsive and democratic government working for the people. We are standing here, and we will stand here until our voice is heard. The Ukrainian voice has been heard now. By the world: by the European Union, the U.S. government, and millions of regular people around the world, via television. I understand that the press needs to generate headlines which will make people tune in. “Ukrainian nation on the brink of splitting apart” is certainly more attention grabbing than, “Ukrainians are standing in peace, waving flags.”

For ten days now, Ukraine has stopped. Okay – public transportation, electricity, water and other utilities are working, food is being bought and sold. The government has stopped. So one lesson here is how little effect the government has on every day life. But, a government merely siphons off taxes and spends the money on luxury cars is not okay. I’ve lived here for 20 months now. And I have only heard, “nothing ever changes.” And, now something has changed. Ukrainians know that a better life is possible, that a life lived avoiding the government and withdrawing inward is no longer okay. Ukrainians deserve more, and now they are ready to work for more.

Is this opposition financed by the west? Here in Ukraine, much is financed by the west. There are American government programs that offer Ukrainian students a year of education, either secondary or post-secondary (high school or college) in America. (There are similar Canadian government programs, which are probably more realistic and friendly than the American counterparts. Tee-hee). Many NGOs are financed by the west. American, Canadian and western European based organizations provide funding for humanitarian aid programs, education programs, health programs, and a wide range of activities. Besides addressing immediate needs, these programs provide employment and valuable work experience for talented Ukrainians. American companies, for example, Coca-Cola and Mc Donald’s, also operate here. They employ many Ukrainians, and contribute in many other ways to the growth of the economy. (And, just like a big corporation anywhere, they create pollution, waste, and all the other down sides). All of these activities: governmental, business, and third-sector must somehow influence the worldview of Ukrainians who work in, with, for, and among these various entities. However, I think news reports that say “western-backed candidate” are missing something big. They are simplifying, which they need to do. But I think they miss the fact that before Yushchenko became the “opposition” candidate he was the “Our Ukraine” party candidate. Greater alliance with the west may be an effect of his election. But, Ukrainians here are standing for their voice, their language, and their history. It is their daily lives that might feel freer and they will feel more hopeful about their own futures as a result of this election.

Okay, so who are these Ukrainians? One of my former colleagues from Counterpart, Anya, has been camped out at the tent-city since the day of the run-off election, November 21. She takes the metro home each morning to shower, change, perhaps eat and rest, before heading back to be with protesters all afternoon, evening, and to keep a presence there overnight in the tents. I feel privileged to have known Anya since almost the very beginning of my time in Ukraine (about six weeks into training when all the volunteers in my training group met our future colleagues). She is a bundle of positive energy, and she is a professional woman who accomplishes tasks with amazing determination and skill. When Counterpart closed programs in Ukraine, Anya (while she applies for graduate school and seeks employment) began volunteering for the campaign. Educating Ukrainians, handing out fliers, attending meetings, and I’m sure a myriad of other activities. I say all this to illustrate a point: a large number of the protesters are young people, who have been educated to know that there are other ways to live besides in despair and who believe that Ukrainians can and should be living such lives. These students and young adults are educated, hard working and motivated.

Many of the protests are not students or young adults: there are regular adults, middle-aged adults, and older adults. This is not a protest solely of young people. Ukrainians are not as divided along an age split, although such a claim has become a widespread cliché, along with a supposed Eastern Ukraine/Western Ukraine split.

Another large group of the protestors are Ukrainians who have traveled to Kyiv, their capital, from outlying regions. Many of them are from Western Ukraine, as has been highlighted by the media. However, many of them are from Eastern Ukraine and central – the regions near Kyiv. As far as I can tell they are from all over Ukraine. Ukraine is not bitterly divided. Those who support the current government are small in number. And many of them support the government out of fear of change, and not because they are particularly happy with how things are now.

For a more personal angle, I recommend two local weblogs:

A western (I think American) consultant who works in Kyiv:

A Ukrainian journalist who attended school in America, and is also blogging in English:

I have started listening to a local radio news station that is broadcasting live from the center of Kyiv, or playing interviews or call-in programs related to the election and protests. I can’t understand much. This is the first time I have wished I to be studying Ukrainian, rather than Russian. Anyway, I understand the weather forecasts. And, I understand that various charitable organizations are now soliciting donations on the airways. This election and protest might also prompt Ukrainians to start giving charitable donations on a larger scale. That would be great news for the state of philanthropy in Ukraine.

I’m feel lucky to be living through this historical experience. It should go without saying that the above ramblings are my views, and not those of Peace Corps or the U.S. government. And, I know I am, as ever, an optimist and a pacifist. As the Red Hot Chili peppers say, “I’m a pacifist and I can f**k your sh*t up.” You are welcome to email me and ask any question you might have. I will write back!

To Peace/ Za Miru,

Delilah