April 17, 2003

The weather is getting warmer! I've even spied green grass in the last few days.

I spent last weekend at a Peace Corps "mid-training conference" and this week have been enjoying a "site visit" at my future office at Counterpart International in Kiev.

The first big news: Peace Corps decided that Susan (a volunteer who will also work at Counterpart) and I should have separate apartments. So, yes, I will be having the typical Peace Corps experience of living on my own.

Adventures in Language:
The first question Anya and Tanya from Counterpart asked Susan and I (after greeting us in English) was, "Why are you learning Russian?" They speak English at work, and Ukrainian to each other. They also speak Russian. This exchange is typical of the way language divides Ukrainians. Everyone speaks three languages (at least, German is a popular fourth language) but has strong feelings about Ukrainian vs. Russian. Ukrainian is the official language of Ukraine. All of the official documents are in Ukrainian, as is the Metro (underground subway) map, street signs, etc. People who prefer to speak Russian will say that most people speak Russian, and people who prefer Ukrainian say most people speak Ukrainian. After a few days in the office I've noticed that personal conversations take place in Russian and Ukrainian. I can actually tell the difference between the two languages by listening for a few key words. For example, the words for please and yes are different. (I refuse to write out the transliterations... sorry).

Soon after the language conversation, I learned that Tanya knows all of the good dance nights in Kiev (Salsa and Tango) and can tell me where to learn Ukrainian folk dancing. She just returned to Ukraine from attending graduate school in Boston. Tanya coordinates the program at Counterpart with which I will be doing the most work.

Anya spent a year of high school in Kansas City, MO (of course) and is the logistics manager for Counterpart in Ukraine. She is also the office social event coordinator. On Sunday she walked around Kiev with Susan and I, and showed us a street with lots of good shopping- local folk art, jewelry, etc. Last night she took us to a film that was part of a French film festival. "The Class Trip" was show in French, with Russian voice-over, and English sub-titles. (If you have not seen it, don't rent it. If you have seen it, you know what I mean.) Anya studies at Kiev University in addition to her full-time work at Counterpart and her active social life.

Susan and I impressed our new colleagues (we begin at Counterpart on June 1st, after the conclusion of pre-service training and the Peace Corps swearing-in ceremony on May 27th) with our ability to introduce ourselves and tell about our education and work experience in Russian. (Lot's of big words). In the last two days I've begun to learn more about the work of Counterpart in Ukraine (and Moldova) and more about what I might be doing. I'm quite excited about the work, and I look forward to sharing my experiences with you via e-mail.

Passover is this week, so it's a good time to start sharing some of the Jewish experiences I've had so far.

The first was a trip to the local Borispol (the town where my language training and host family stay is happening) museum. Sholom Alechem lived near there, and they had his portrait and some writing displayed.

I have experienced absolutely no anti-semitism. Although, I understand more why many people were concerned about that. I've been reading a book about Soviet Jewish émigré's in the United States (it was given to me by a currently-serving Jewish volunteer here, and I had time to read it only 'cause I was in bed with a cold for a few days...). The level of discrimination against Jews here... well, discrimination is not really the correct word. Even today, Judaism is not viewed as a religion. Therefore, a Jew is not a Ukrainian, but a Jew.

How has this / will this / does this effect me? Well, I feel lucky to be living (soon, in about six weeks) in Kiev. There is an active Reform synagog, as well as an Orthodox one. And possibly an active Jewish Community Center and a Hillel at the University. And of course the AJWS projects that I mentioned in an earlier e-mail (which may be active more in rural areas, but the office is in Kiev). I look forward to exploring all of this further. And having more stories to share.

Thanks everyone for your e-mails with news and questions. Please continue to ask questions. I'm having so many new experiences, and so far have had little time to process them. It helps to know what people want to to know!

Best wishes for a happy spring, wherever you are!
Delilah

P.S. more words at the website: http://www.well.com/user/reb/delilah/
P. P.S. Thank you for allowing me to share my adventures with you!
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