13 September, 2003

Dear Family and Friends,

On a Sunday in mid-August I found myself with the rare afternoon free of schedule and plan. Morning activities had brought me to the center of town and I happened to be at the edge of a park with a grand view of Kiev. I decided to just walk, explore an area I had not explored on foot before and head in the general direction of home but without a time frame. I walked downhill through the vibrant green park along a narrow cobblestone switchback. I emerged at the bottom at the edge of the Dnepr River. There is construction going on all over the city, and the riverbank proved to be no exception. I noticed a crane operating and I stopped to observe. The crane reminded me of a giant version of one of those coin-operated bubble gum machines, the kind that used to be at the mechanical museum at Ocean Beach in San Francisco, where one picks up bubble gum balls by operating the crane. This life-size crane was taking sand out of a barge container, and pouring it into the river. Creating landfill one mechanical spoonful at a time. I don’t know how landfill is created elsewhere, but I’m guessing that there must be a more efficient way. As I turned to continue my walk, a brand new sports car (complete with rear spoiler) zoomed by. The contrast between the old technology and new is a good illustration of the many contrasts between old and new that I see everyday. I suppose contrast is a function of the “transitional economy” that I am living in here in Ukraine. But I think there are also stark contrasts in operation in the US, only I was so accustomed to seeing them that I took them for granted.

As I continued my walk I crossed a pedestrian bridge, explored a forested island and enjoyed the sunset at a beach. The hours of relaxed walking and warm sunshine facilitated my mind to ponder all that I’ve done and experienced over the past six months… As I approach the completion of my first three months of Peace Corps service (and the first three months of training), I thought it would be a good time for a general “check-in” and to follow up on some of the ideas I introduced in my initial “Dear Friends and Family” letter.

A few people have asked if I am having a good time, or have written that they hope I am having a good time. I am. Although Kiev is becoming familiar and I am settling into domestic, work and social routines, I still have the feeling of being on an exciting journey. Everyday I learn something new, or experience something that I did not even think about before. For example, last week I got two rolls of film developed. I had to walk through a construction zone to do it. The little Kodak hut sat amid the falling debris of tile being chipped off of the outside of my office building. The proprietor of the Kodak hut sat outside enjoying a mid-day watermelon break. Her son took my film, and told me to return in an hour or two for my photos. The everyday task that is ordinary, yet extraordinary (and conducted in Russian)!

What happened to working for an environmental organization? During the first week in Kiev we had a series of interviews with Peace Corps staff used to determine our final site placement (in addition to our applications, essays and resumes which the staff had already reviewed prior to our arrival). The Peace Corps placement office in Washington, D.C. had told me I would be in an environmental organization. However, the in-country staff had other plans. This is a case of miscommunication between Washington and Ukraine. And although it may seem major to the non Peace Corps Volunteer, I quickly accepted the fact that I would not be at an environmental NGO, and I understand the logic. My training group was comprised of three sub-groups: Business, NGO, and Environment. The “environment” folks all have science or other specific environmental knowledge and were mostly placed in environmental education roles. I have no specific environmental specialty just a strong interest in environmental issues and I understand why I am not in this group.

I am satisfied with my placement at Counterpart. The organizations that Counterpart works with in Ukraine represent a wide variety of issues, although the majority of them are working on traditional charity causes such as orphans, the hungry, poor and elderly. Humanitarian aid is a form of reuse (recycling), so there is an environmental component. I may be oversimplifying a bit, but I think that everything is in some ways an environmental issue. All human activity impacts the life of the planet in one way or another, either for good or for ill. No action occurs in a vacuum. Suffice to say, no, I’m not volunteering directly for an environmental organization, but I believe I am helping good work get done. Currently, I’m still working on the three sister-city relationships, and have also been working together with Susan and Tanya on long range planning for the Counterpart Communities program.

How does one measure personal growth, and is my person growing? (A little humor helps to keep this potentially serious subject in perspective). I came to Peace Corps and to Ukraine with an attempt to have no expectations, knowing that I was embarking to the great unknown and whatever I found would be a surprise in some way. I was nervous and excited, but more the latter than the former. Now that I am here, my daily life is more familiar than I expected it would be. I did not expect to be volunteering at an American organization and speaking English every day. I also did not expect to spend nearly 8 hours a day working at a computer. But I knew that I was going to be in an office environment, and if I had really wanted one of those elusive non-desk jobs, I would have had to do something other than Peace Corps. And I didn’t. (I will however, after May 2005 do something besides Peace Corps. What? I don’t know, and that is exciting). Not that I am going to be suffering through the next 21 months marking days off on my calendar. As I said, I’m having a good time. It’s just not that different from my three years of post-college, pre-Peace Corps life. My daily stresses and challenges are eerily the same as in San Francisco. For example, I fret about what to wear to work, getting to the office on time, and inter-office dynamics. Like before, I struggle with how to divide my time between work, socializing, community and self. If I have had any insights into life it has been to realize that maybe life really is not that hard, we all need to relax, take a deep breath, and have a little more fun. Each day is a miracle, and I am trying to live it that way. Not that each day has to be filled with excitement beyond my wildest dreams, but just that each day is good and sweet, whatever it brings. (And often life is tough, but hopefully each person gets to experience a balance of the two).

As I left, the US was on the brink of beginning a war in Iraq, and that added to general safety concerns. On a personal level, I feel very safe in Kiev. I walk home after dark. There are many other pedestrians out and about. I walk down the street having conversations in English and don’t give it a second thought. I keep money and other belongings secure, but I don’t feel particularly threatened by the prospect of theft. Personal safety is as it was at home, with perhaps an extra bit of caution and attention being paid simply because I am not as familiar with surroundings here. Ukraine is in general a peaceful place. While many people do not agree with the US policy on Iraq, attitude toward America is positive. (Besides the fact that I think President Bush is perceived as somewhat of a joke, but that is not so different from the general public opinion of the Ukrainian President Kuchma. Or, US public opinion about Bush). I doubt very much that I will be the target of, or experience second-hand, an anti-American attack during my time here. However, the Peace Corps Ukraine security team is very vigilant and I am sure that any potential threats to safety are taken very seriously. As for the war (it may be over in name but people die on a daily basis so I still think of Iraq as a war), although I feel well informed about the facts of the war (thanks to the internet and some print media), I feel very unaware of what is the prevailing attitude at home, and I think when the time comes to return I will find myself in a state of shock. Hopefully I will be able to articulate what that is like.

At Ha Tikvah, I continue to enjoy the wonderful warmth and friendship of the community. As soon as I informed the Rabbi of my Torah chanting abilities, he asked me to read. I’ve read once (Ekev), will read during high holidays, and hopefully will be one of three regular readers. Usually, they read the first two or three lines of the portion so it’s not too daunting. Also, I’ve agreed to lead an English conversation hour with the teens after services on Saturdays. It will be a good opportunity for them to practice English, and a great opportunity for me to find out what they think about!

As always, your questions, thoughts and comments are welcome!

Best wishes,

Delilah

P.S. I think the fact that I can watch the sunset anywhere besides the Pacific Ocean and actually consider it a sunset, and not a celestial phenomenon that should go by a different name, is a sign that either a) I have been out of San Francisco for too long or b) I have achieved personal growth.

P.P.S. After observing the fake sunset I hopped on the nearby Metro to get home.

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